Reckless Tarragon
A blog for food lovers: “There are certain people, whom certain herbs, the good digestion of disturbs. Henry the VIII divorced Catherine of Aragon because of her reckless use of tarragon.” – attributed to Ogden Nash
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Lucky Stew (or Golden Hominy and Corn Stew with Cornmeal Dumplings)
I adapted this a few years ago from James McNair's Corn Cookbook for my husband, who lived in Alabama at the start of his journalism career. He had related to me how Southern cooks greet the new year with collards and black-eyed peas to ensure good luck.
Now, neither of us are superstitious, but food traditions are fun and interesting, and sometimes help with menu planning. And this is good stuff.
I add collards for color, nutrition, fiber (oh, and, um, luck). I also add additional broth because the dumplings soak up some of it as they cook. That's also why I don't drain the tomatoes. I usually use potato (I used cauliflower once and was pleased) instead of turnip or rutabaga. Don't forget to soak the dried beans/peas the night before. My changes and notations are in parentheses.
You can make the stew a day ahead, as I did this weekend because of our schedule, and reheat it to a simmer before adding the dumplings. I reheated it in a saute pan to allow more space for the dumplings, which worked well.
Also great from this cookbook (and I recommend all of his) is the Smothered Cajun Corn, or Maque Choux.
Golden Hominy and Corn Stew with Cornmeal Dumplings (and Collard Greens)
1 cup dried baby lima or French flageolet beans (black-eyed peas)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onion (1 large white onion)
1 tbsp. minced or pressed garlic
4 or 5 whole cloves (1/2 tsp. ground cloves. . . didn't want to bite into on of those suckers)
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp. minced fresh thyme or 1 tbsp dried thyme
2 quarts homemade vegetable or chicken stock or canned chicken broth (add 2 cups)
1 can (16 oz.) golden hominy, drained
1 cup diced carrot
1 cup peeled, diced turnip or rutabaga (substitute potato or cauliflower florets)
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley (I forgot it this time)
1 cup peeled, seeded, chopped ripe or drained canned tomato (28-oz. can diced tomatoes, undrained)
2 cups fresh, drained canned or thawed frozen yellow corn (I used frozen white shoepeg corn this time)
(1 to 1 1/2 lbs. fresh collard greens, tough stems removed and discarded, greens rinsed well and roughly chopped)
(1 cup or so of diced ham or cooked chicken, optional)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Ground cayenne (I skip this so my husband will eat it)
Corn Dumplings:
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup cake flour (all-purpose works, but dumplings aren't quite as cakey)
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/3 cup milk
1 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup cooked corn (you can skip this)
Carefully pick over beans (peas) to remove any shriveled ones and foreign matter (such as rocks or an errant lentil). Place in bowl, cover with water, cover bowl and soak overnight.
Drain and reserve beans (peas).
Heat oil in a stainless-steel* stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 1 more minute. Add the drained beans (peas), cloves, bay leaves, thyme and stock or broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the drained hominy, carrot, chosen vegetables, parsley, tomato and half the collards (only half because you need them to cook down before you can add more). Simmer until the vegetables are nearly tender, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the rest of the collards when there is room.
When the stew is in its last 30 minutes of simmering, mix the dumpling batter:
In a bowl combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; mix well. Add egg, milk, butter and corn and stir until blended. Let stand about 10 minutes before cooking to allow cornmeal to absorb the liquids.
Stir the 2 cups of corn into the stew and season to taste with salt and peppers. (Make sure it is just simmering before adding the dumplings; boiling can break dumplings apart.) For each dumpling, drop a heaping tablespoon of batter onto stew. When all of the batter has been added, cover the pot and cook until a toothpick inserted into a dumpling comes out clean, about 15 minutes. Serve hot, scooping dumplings alongside some of the stew in a bowl.
Serves 6 hungry people. Nice with a green salad.
Note: Reheats well as far as flavor, but any dumplings already in the stew will break apart a bit.
*(Stainless steel is nonreactive; the acid in the tomatoes won't react with it, as it can with aluminum, changing the color of the stew or imparting a metallic taste.)
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Greek Shrimp and Feta
This is one of my favorite shrimp dishes, and good bread (see posts
for Stilton Parmesan or Spinach Feta breads) is a
must for sopping up the scrumptious sauce. So simple, but oh, so good.
It's also a great company dish, assuming guests eat shrimp.
Greek Shrimp and Feta
1 1/2 lbs. large raw shrimp
1 1/2 c. chopped green onions or 1 large onion, chopped
1/2 c. olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, minced
4 c. chopped, peeled tomatoes (or 1 large can)
1 c. white wine
1/2 c. chopped fresh parsley (or 1 1/2 tbsp. dried), a little reserved for garnish
2 tsp. dried oregano
2 tbsp. sugar
Salt and pepper
8 oz. feta, crumbled
Shell shrimp (I like to buy E-Z peel shrimp, which makes the process much faster). Rinse, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Chill.
Gently fry onion in oil till transparent. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes, wine, herbs if using dried, sugar, salt and pepper.
Cover and simmer sauce for 30 minutes, till very thick. Add fresh herbs if using. Spoon sauce into large baking dish or 6 to 8 individual baking dishes. Arrange shrimp on top. Sprinkle crumbled feta over all.
Bake at 400 for 15 to 20 minutes, till shrimp are pink and feta melts a little. Sprinkle with reserved fresh parsley and serve.
It's also a great company dish, assuming guests eat shrimp.
Greek Shrimp and Feta
1 1/2 lbs. large raw shrimp
1 1/2 c. chopped green onions or 1 large onion, chopped
1/2 c. olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, minced
4 c. chopped, peeled tomatoes (or 1 large can)
1 c. white wine
1/2 c. chopped fresh parsley (or 1 1/2 tbsp. dried), a little reserved for garnish
2 tsp. dried oregano
2 tbsp. sugar
Salt and pepper
8 oz. feta, crumbled
Shell shrimp (I like to buy E-Z peel shrimp, which makes the process much faster). Rinse, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Chill.
Gently fry onion in oil till transparent. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes, wine, herbs if using dried, sugar, salt and pepper.
Cover and simmer sauce for 30 minutes, till very thick. Add fresh herbs if using. Spoon sauce into large baking dish or 6 to 8 individual baking dishes. Arrange shrimp on top. Sprinkle crumbled feta over all.
Bake at 400 for 15 to 20 minutes, till shrimp are pink and feta melts a little. Sprinkle with reserved fresh parsley and serve.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Summer vegetable soup
It might sound odd to eat soup in the summer, but this is wonderful barely warm or at room temperature. It's also healthful and takes advantage of some of the bounty of your (or someone else's) garden. This is great with a crusty bread or cornbread. (See earlier posts on Stilton Parmesan bread and Spinach Feta bread.)
I admit that I made this before the really long, miserable hot spell we had in the Midwest -- not the best time for cooking up a pot of soup. I'm just way behind in my posting.
Summer Vegetable Soup
Adapted from a Gourmet recipe
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large Vidalia onion, chopped
1 1/2 tsp. each dried oregano, dried basil, ground cumin and paprika (I used Spanish smoked)
2 sweet bell peppers (choose among red, yellow, orange), chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 medium zucchini, sliced crosswise (and lengthwise if thick)
2 medium yellow squash, sliced crosswise (and lengthwise if thick)
1 (28-oz.) can diced tomatoes, undrained
2 cups water*
1 quart chicken broth
1 can corn (or scrape kernels from 3 or 4 ears fresh corn if in season)
1 can chickpeas (I used a 19-oz. can Progresso)
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup minced fresh herb mix such as oregano, thyme, parsley, basil
Feta to crumble over each bowl of soup
In a large deep skillet, cook the onion and the garlic in the oil over moderately low heat, stirring, until the onion is softened. Stir in the dried herbs and spices and cook 1 minute. Add the squashes, bell pepper and the corn, and cook the mixture over moderate heat, stirring, for 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, broth, water, salt and pepper to taste and simmer the stew, covered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove the cover and simmer the stew, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes more. Sprinkle with the fresh herbs and Feta, and serve just warm or at room temperature.
*For thicker, stewlike dish, omit water.
Variation: Add 1 tbsp. minced sun-dried tomatoes with the raw vegetables.
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Beef and Stout (Guinness) "Casserole"
This is from a casserole cookbook called Bake Until Bubbly by Clifford A. Wright, but it's really more of an Irish stew that's baked in the oven. I like to double the recipe because it's time-consuming (3 1/2 hours start to finish), and freeze half or give half away, as I did recently to a couple with a newborn.
It's worth every minute and all the knife work.
Be sure to have some crusty bread for sopping up the savory sauce.
Beef and Stout
(not doubled)
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1 1/2 lbs. boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 lb. lean Irish bacon or Canadian bacon (which I use), cubed
1 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
One 12-oz. bottle stout beer (such as Guinness)
1 pound small white onions, about 14, peeled OR 2 medium onions cut into eighths
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. dried thyme
1/4 tsp. dried marjoram
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs marjoram, 6 sprigs parsley tied in cheesecloth. . . or just thrown into the pot as I do)
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.
In large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat, then brown the beef and bacon on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the meats with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl. Discard any accumulated fat and juices in the skillet.
Melt butter in the same skillet over medium heat. Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in the stout, stirring until gravy is smooth.
Place beef, bacon and onions in a 12-by-9-by-2 baking casserole or 10-inch round baking casserole (for a doubled recipe, I used a large dutch oven). Sprinkle with the parsley and marjoram, season with salt and pepper, and add garlic and bouquet garni/herbs. Mix well. Sprinkle the top with the sugar and pour the gravy over the beef. Stir again to mix well. Cover and bake until the meat if very tender, about 3 hours. Removed from the oven and stir in the vinegar. Let rest for 5 minutes and serve.
Note: For some reason I was worried about how much sauce there would be this time, and stirred in a jar of "beef gravy" before putting the pot into the oven. I wondered if this lame addition (why did I even have that in my pantry?) would affect the flavor, but it seemed no harm was done.
It's worth every minute and all the knife work.
Be sure to have some crusty bread for sopping up the savory sauce.
Beef and Stout
(not doubled)
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1 1/2 lbs. boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 lb. lean Irish bacon or Canadian bacon (which I use), cubed
1 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
One 12-oz. bottle stout beer (such as Guinness)
1 pound small white onions, about 14, peeled OR 2 medium onions cut into eighths
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. dried thyme
1/4 tsp. dried marjoram
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs marjoram, 6 sprigs parsley tied in cheesecloth. . . or just thrown into the pot as I do)
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.
In large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat, then brown the beef and bacon on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the meats with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl. Discard any accumulated fat and juices in the skillet.
Melt butter in the same skillet over medium heat. Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in the stout, stirring until gravy is smooth.
Place beef, bacon and onions in a 12-by-9-by-2 baking casserole or 10-inch round baking casserole (for a doubled recipe, I used a large dutch oven). Sprinkle with the parsley and marjoram, season with salt and pepper, and add garlic and bouquet garni/herbs. Mix well. Sprinkle the top with the sugar and pour the gravy over the beef. Stir again to mix well. Cover and bake until the meat if very tender, about 3 hours. Removed from the oven and stir in the vinegar. Let rest for 5 minutes and serve.
Note: For some reason I was worried about how much sauce there would be this time, and stirred in a jar of "beef gravy" before putting the pot into the oven. I wondered if this lame addition (why did I even have that in my pantry?) would affect the flavor, but it seemed no harm was done.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Orange Rosemary Mini-muffins
The original recipe comes from Elizabeth Alston's Muffins but I borrow the orange juice glaze from a similar recipe in Sarah Leah Chase's Nantucket Open House Cookbook. You can eat these as is, as a nice option for a bread basket, or make little appetizers: I have used a small scallop-edged cookie cutter to cut pieces of ham to sandwich between muffin halves with a little mustard. Yum. Chase's recipe calls for appetizer sandwiches made with duck breast.
I most recently baked these as an Easter bread option.
Orange Rosemary Mini-muffins
3/4 cup milk (I used skim)
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 tsp. dried rosemary leaves (I used crushed)
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cut in pieces
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 c. granulated sugar
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1 large egg
Grated zest from 1 orange, reserving juice
Simmer milk, raisins and rosemary for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, add butter and stir till melted. Let cool (placing pan in small bowl of cold water or ice will cool contents in minutes). Stir in orange zest.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease or spray muffin tins or use foil baking cups.
Mix flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Whisk egg into cooled milk mixture. Pour over dry ingredients and fold in with rubber spatula just until dry ingredients are moistened.
Scoop batter into muffin cups. Bake mini-muffins 10-12 minutes (regular size about 20) or until golden and springy in the middle. Brush muffins with orange juice while hot. Turn out of pan and serve hot or cool on rack.
I most recently baked these as an Easter bread option.
Orange Rosemary Mini-muffins
3/4 cup milk (I used skim)
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 tsp. dried rosemary leaves (I used crushed)
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cut in pieces
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 c. granulated sugar
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1 large egg
Grated zest from 1 orange, reserving juice
Simmer milk, raisins and rosemary for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, add butter and stir till melted. Let cool (placing pan in small bowl of cold water or ice will cool contents in minutes). Stir in orange zest.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease or spray muffin tins or use foil baking cups.
Mix flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Whisk egg into cooled milk mixture. Pour over dry ingredients and fold in with rubber spatula just until dry ingredients are moistened.
Scoop batter into muffin cups. Bake mini-muffins 10-12 minutes (regular size about 20) or until golden and springy in the middle. Brush muffins with orange juice while hot. Turn out of pan and serve hot or cool on rack.
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